Uncover the hidden side of the Jersey Shore on a trek down the Coastal Heritage Trail

by Brittany Chrusciel | For Jersey's Best

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Uncover the hidden side of the Jersey Shore on a trek down the Coastal Heritage Trail

Ospreys are a common sight up and down the New Jersey coastline during the summer months. Photo courtesy of Cape May County Tourism

An osprey swoops down to catch a fish, spreading its 5-foot-wide wingspan as it skates along the water. Further down the coast, a humpback whale breaches as seagulls circle overhead. The lighthouse flashes on its beacon, signaling dusk. Is this not the wild Jersey Shore you had in mind? 

New Jersey’s coastal regions are home to abundant bird species, marine animals and other wildlife, in addition to nearly a dozen historic lighthouses — including the nation’s oldest continuously operating lighthouse. It makes sense, then, that the National Park service, in cooperation with the State of New Jersey, has designated the nearly 300 miles of the state’s drivable coastline the “New Jersey Coastal Heritage Trail Route.” From Sandy Hook — just a stone’s throw from Manhattan — all the way down to Cape May and around the west to Deepwater on the Delaware River, the route passes through five main regions in one expansive celebration of the state’s diverse range of coastal scenery. 

The New Jersey Coastal Heritage Trail Route was established in 1988 as a driving tour “to provide for public appreciation, education, understanding and enjoyment” of significant natural and cultural sites associated with the coastal area of the Garden State. 

Additionally, New Jersey is home to eight scenic byways, with two of these routes — Bayshore Heritage and Pine Barrens — found along the Coastal Heritage Trail. 

“Just one year ago, we proudly announced that four of New Jersey’s scenic byways earned the highly distinguished designation of National Scenic Byway by the U.S. Department of Transportation Federal Highway Administration. One of those national standouts included Bayshore Heritage,” said Jeff Vasser, executive director of the New Jersey Division of Travel and Tourism. 

Like a scenic byway, the Coastal Heritage Trail is not intended to be completed in a single day, but to serve as a way for both visitors and residents to appreciate a range of coastline activities and the rich history they provide. Starting with the construction of the Sandy Hook Lighthouse in 1764, road trippers along the route will time travel through more than 250 years of maritime heritage — and, hopefully, a turtle or a dolphin will be spotted along the way. 

Following are the five regions of New Jersey’s Coastal Heritage Trail Route along with their defining characteristics, possible wildlife sightings and main cultural attractions.  

The Henry Hudson Trail winds its way along Sandy Hook Bay into the heart of the northernmost region of the Coastal Heritage Trail. Photo courtesy of Monmouth County Tourism

Sandy Hook Region 

The Coastal Heritage Route starts in Perth Amboy on the Raritan Bay in Middlesex County, but centers on Monmouth County and the Sandy Hook Gateway National Recreation Area. The first region on the route, Sandy Hook also serves as the country’s earliest example of maritime history; the Sandy Hook Lighthouse and surrounding territory was seized by the British during the Revolutionary War on the summer solstice of 1776 and remained under foreign occupation longer than anywhere else in the nation.  

Today, due to encroaching coastal currents, the lighthouse is about 1.5 miles from the tip of Sandy Hook (it was originally just 500 feet). From this safe distance, visitors can observe the classic white-and-red structure and the abandoned barracks and buildings of the surrounding Fort Hancock, which also includes hiking and bike trails that stretch around the peninsula. The oldest outfit of the United States Coast Guard has been stationed here since 1848 as well. Unfortunately, at press time, tours of the Sandy Hook Lighthouse have not reopened to the public, but access to the park is free year-round (a $20 parking fee is enforced from Memorial Day through Labor Day). Visitors will find spectacular views of the New York City skyline from the shoreline. 

The Mount Mitchell Scenic Overlook is the highest natural point on the Atlantic Seaboard at 266 feet. Photo courtesy of Monmouth County Tourism

The Sandy Hook region bends from Keyport down to popular boardwalk destinations, like Long Branch and Asbury Park. You can cruise along Ocean Avenue for most of the journey. Foxes and white-tailed deer call this area home, though it’s rare to spot the former. Harbor seals can be found in the waters here from November through March. Due to its location along the Atlantic Flyway, this region attracts birdwatchers who can spot more than 300 species, from those majestic ospreys to the threatened piping plovers whose nesting areas are federally protected. 

Nearby, in Atlantic Highlands, is the Mount Mitchill Scenic Overlook. Its great views can be explained due to its location as the highest natural point on the Atlantic Seaboard at 266 feet. The park also contains a moving memorial to those who were lost in the 9/11 attacks.  

A tremendous example of the ecosystem of the Pinelands is at Double Trouble State Park, a former cranberry farm that still features a historic village and mill set on 8,000 acres. Photo courtesy of New Jersey Division of Travel and Tourism

Barnegat Bay Region 

The Barnegat Bay is an arm of the Atlantic Ocean that runs for 42 miles through Ocean County, yet its watershed covers 600 square miles of changing landscapes from dunes and marshes to the protected Pine Barrens. A tremendous example of the ecosystem of the Pinelands is at Double Trouble State Park, a former cranberry farm that still features a historic village and mill set on 8,000 acres. The park’s Cedar Creek is popular with kayakers and canoeists.  

Barnegat Bay is separated from the ocean by Island Beach State Park and Long Beach Island (LBI), two popular natural areas with pristine beaches. On the Coastal Heritage Trail, you’ll know you’re in the right place when you spot the Barnegat Lighthouse, located in the small city of Barnegat Light on LBI.  

 While access to the grounds remains free, tours of the lighthouse have been suspended through summer 2022 due to ongoing maintenance.  

Island Beach State Park is a gem of the Barnegat Bay Region, thanks to its untouched dunes and dense maritime forests. Photo courtesy of New Jersey Division of Travel and Tourism

The Barnegat Bay, including Point Pleasant, Seaside Park, Ship Bottom, down to Holgate, is an area known for its fishing and crabbing. Once, a more industrial fishing industry thrived here, but today it’s mainly recreational boats along the ocean and the bay, looking for striped bass or fluke.  

Bird lovers will have to stop at the Great Bay Boulevard Wildlife Management Area in Little Egg Harbor, where 4,000 shore birds make their nests among the salt marshes. According to the National Park Service, “New Jersey’s 245,000 acres of salt marshes are a critical link in the coastal food chain. Their nutrient-rich muck and grasses provide habitat and food for crabs and other shellfish, baby fish, and shore and wading birds.” 

Those more interested in manmade exploits can visit the Toms River Seaport Society & Maritime Museum in Toms River, open 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Tuesdays, Thursday and Saturdays, with a $5 suggested donation. Founded in 1976, this nonprofit works to preserve Barnegat’s maritime history, including a collection of classic wooden sailboats. 

New Jersey’s tallest lighthouse, the Absecon Lighthouse, is here in the Absecon Region of the Coastal Heritage Trail. Photo courtesy of NJ Advance Media

Absecon Region 

Brigantine, Atlantic City and Margate City are the three major cities of the Absecon region on the New Jersey Coastal Heritage Trail. Atlantic City perhaps needs no introduction as the world’s first and longest boardwalk, and an empire for entertainment. A family beach day is in order here; unlike many other locations throughout the state, the beaches in Atlantic City are free.  

New Jersey’s tallest lighthouse, the Absecon Lighthouse, is here in AC. At 171 feet, it’s the third-tallest lighthouse in the country and open to the public year-round for climbing its 228 steps to the top. Built in 1857, it predates the presidency of Abraham Lincoln. 

Just south is Margate, home to Lucy the Elephant, a 150-year-old elephant structure with a furnished interior that stands 6 stories tall. (Lucy is expected to reopen to the public for summer 2022 after some vital renovations.) 

Corson’s Inlet State Park is one of the last undeveloped tracts of land along New Jersey’s waterfront. Photo courtesy of Cape May County Tourism

The main attraction for naturalists in Absecon is Corson’s Inlet State Park, one of the last undeveloped tracts of land along New Jersey’s waterfront, now a protected stretch of Atlantic shoreline from Atlantic City to Cape May. While swimming here is not allowed and dogs are restricted from April to September, it’s all to protect the endangered shore birds who nest here, including black skimmers and the least tern — the world’s smallest tern. Encouraged are boating, fishing, crabbing, kayaking, hiking or simply sunbathing. 

The 3,600-acre Absecon Wildlife Management Area is recognized by the New Jersey Audubon Society for its prime bird viewing, especially of the region’s shore birds. At the Edwin B. Forsythe National Wildlife Refuge, those along the coastal route will be rewarded with nearly 40,000 acres of wetlands, primarily made up of salt marshes. In the spirit of this auto tour, the Forsythe Refuge offers a Wildlife Dive Loop, which takes about 45 minutes at 15 miles per hour — fees apply. According to the park’s website, a quarter-million people complete this drive, past marshes and former railroads, each year. 

From Stone Harbor down to Exit 0 itself, the Cape May portion of the New Jersey Coastal Heritage Trail provides day trippers with thousands of acres of coastal wetlands and wildlife refuges. Photo courtesy of Cape May County Tourism

Cape May Region 

America’s first seaside resort town, Cape May came onto the scene in grand fashion when Congress Hall opened its doors in 1816. While Cape May proper — with its candy-colored Victorian homes and boardwalk — is still a top New Jersey destination 200 years later, the Cape May region along this coastal route begins in Ocean City, long considered an ideal Jersey Shore summer escape featuring Gillian’s Wonderland Pier. 

From Stone Harbor down to Exit 0 itself, the Cape May portion of the New Jersey Coastal Heritage Trail provides day trippers with two lighthouses, miles of fine-sand beaches and thousands of acres of coastal wetlands and wildlife refuges. Not to mention ample charming shops, restaurants, breweries and vineyards — and even a distillery. Historical sites include Cape May’s Harriet Tubman Museum, documenting her time in New Jersey to help fund the continuation of Tubman’s Underground Railroad efforts. 

The Bayshore Heritage Scenic Byway winds its way from Salem and Cumberland into Cape May County. “The Bayshore Heritage Scenic Byway gives visitors the opportunity to experience the real beauty of our southern shores in South Jersey and a glimpse into our extensive history,” Michael Snyder, director of operations for Visit South Jersey, explained. “Along the byway, travelers can enjoy our downtowns, cuisine and, more notably, our award-winning South Jersey Wine Region.” 

Cape May Point State Park includes trails that meander through 244 acres of freshwater meadows, ponds, forests, dunes and beach. Photo courtesy of Cape May County Tourism

“With over 122 miles, Bayshore Heritage is one of the most significant routes in the country, dating back to the American Revolution at sites, like Hancock House,” Vasser said. “Moreover, Bayshore Heritage is a ‘must-see’ and ‘must-experience’ journey, as it runs along the Delaware Bay, which is recognized worldwide by ecologists for its vital place on the globe, offering protection for migrating birds and other wetlands’ wildlife habitat.” 

At the Cape May National Wildlife Refuge, migratory birds are protected and can be observed best during their springtime migration; the refuge is the only stop for red knots and ruddy turnstone birds during their 6,000-mile journey. A great place to take a walk and a critical point along the flyway is the South Cape May Meadows preserve, which has trails that link over to Cape May Point State Park, where the Cape May Lighthouse is located.  

The Nature Center of Cape May is celebrating its 30th year in operation as an environmental education campus with a focus on hands-on activities. Staffed by the New Jersey Audubon Society, the center offers ample education, a three-story observation tower, classrooms, gardens and a gift shop.  

The Hereford Inlet Lighthouse was built in North Wildwood in 1874, and the 50-foot tower still shines its light today. Photo courtesy of Cape May County Tourism

Down in the land of Doo Wop, the Hereford Inlet Lighthouse is the only one of its kind created in a style called Swiss Gothic. It was built in North Wildwood in 1874, and the 50-foot tower still shines its light today.  

Perhaps the headlining maritime attraction to the Cape May region is its whale- and dolphin-watching tours. Whales are spotted here year-round, but tours typically run from March through December. Humpback, finback and minke varieties are typically seen in this area of the Atlantic Ocean. Many local operators run these tours, including Cape May Whale Watcher. 

The Maurice River is the heart of a wild and scenic designated tributary and water system in the Delsea Region of the Coastal Heritage Trail. Photo courtesy of Cape May County Tourism

Delsea Region 

Delsea, the final region in the journey of the Coastal Heritage Trail, leaves the East Coast and the Atlantic Ocean for the Delaware Bay along the southwest portion of New Jersey. It’s also the location of the Pine Barrens Scenic Byway, from the Mullica and Maurice rivers to the Delaware Bay and through the southern Pinelands.  

“Coming from the Atlantic Coast, visitors have the opportunity to experience the unique history and beauty of the Pinelands region. Batsto Village in particular is known for its vintage appeal and historical significance, allowing visitors to take a step back in time in the Wharton State Forest,” Snyder said. 

Starting with Delsea’s quaint, 160-year-old lighthouse in Heislerville at the mouth of the Maurice River, the East Point Lighthouse is recognized by New Jersey as an important navigation aid for boaters, fishers and oystercatchers. It’s now a museum open to the public for tours year-round. It more closely resembles a Cape Cod-style house with a red roof than a standard, tall lighthouse, making it a popular subject for local artists. 

East Point Lighthouse resembles a Cape Cod-style house with a red roof than a standard, tall lighthouse. Photo courtesy of Cape May County Tourism

At the Eldora Preserve in the southern Pine Barrens, visitors can hike through oak-pine forests and observe this precious, 950-acre habitat for fish, waterfowl and other birds, as well as 50 threatened and endangered plant species, including 27 types of wild orchids. Among Eldora’s endangered animal inhabitants are bald eagles and the Pine Barrens treefrog.  

Elsewhere in the Delsea region, motorists can stop by Fortescue; surrounded on three sides by marshland, it considers itself a hidden beach destination with some of the best weakfish fishing anywhere. Inspired by the now-famous Boston Tea Party, the Cumberland County town of Greenwich staged what came to be known as the “Last Tea Party” on Dec. 22, 1774, to protest the Brits’ taxes on tea. Bridgeton is home to New Jersey’s oldest zoo, the Cohanzick Zoo. Salem is one of the region’s oldest settlements, sold to the Quakers by the Delaware Native Americans in 1675.  

The Delaware Bay Shore Preserve in Fairfield is yet another natural haven for migratory shorebirds, but also aquatic turtles and American bald eagles. The coastal marsh and bay shore habitat hosts researchers, students from the nearby University of Delaware and, of course, tourists. During the full moon in late May/early June, hundreds of thousands of horseshoe crabs climb ashore along the Delaware Bay to lay up to 1 billion eggs. 

The New Jersey Coastal Heritage Trail Route passes through five main regions in one expansive celebration of the state’s diverse range of coastal scenery. Photo courtesy of Cape May County Tourism

The Road Less Traveled 

Wherever New Jersey’s scenic roads and byways take you, the state’s coastal heritage and habitats will be sure to surprise visitors with something new on every road trip. 

Brittany Chrusciel is a writer and editor specializing in travel, and a lifelong resident of Monmouth County. When she’s not trotting the globe, she calls Asbury Park home and enjoys seeking out new and quirky experiences around the Garden State.

This article originally appeared in the Summer 2022 issue of Jersey’s Best. Subscribe here for in-depth access to everything that makes the Garden State great.

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