With nearly two dozen to choose from around the state, prospective boulderers shouldn’t have a problem finding a location. Photo courtesy of NJ Advance Media
Blame it on the 2021 Tokyo Olympics or a need to find a safe excuse to go outside during the pandemic: It seems everyone and their mother is into climbing these days.
Data from the industry Climbing Business Journal suggests the bouldering and rock-climbing trend is indeed on the up and up. Over 50 new climbing gyms opened in the United States last year, more than any year on record.
New Jersey is blessed with a few excellent locations for outdoor bouldering, rock climbing’s unharnessed little sister. Unlike rock climbing, bouldering is all about conquering lesser heights, usually under 20 feet, with no equipment, making it a more casual point of entry into the world of climbing.
Crash pads are a common safety precaution to consider investing in before you begin bouldering out in nature. Photo courtesy of NJ Advance Media
Getting Started
John Anderson, a Jersey native who leads Rancocas Pathways — an organization that manages Rancocas Creek National Water Trail Initiative — said that all you need to get started with bouldering are a pair of sturdy sneakers, climbing chalk and respect for the landscape.
“Public access is jeopardized in both climbing and bouldering areas in the state of New Jersey when people who access it are not respectful to the land and the local people who live in those areas,” he said.
That means newbies to climbing should be prepared to take away their own trash and be mindful not to disturb the ecosystem around them. Drinking alcohol while bouldering is strictly forbidden and can get climbers in all kinds of trouble; besides the physical risk of drinking while bouldering, climbers can expect to find themselves banned from state parks if they’re caught by park staff.
“If you go out there with a radio and you’re acting like a horse’s ass, there’s going to be a problem,” Anderson said. “The rangers in Jersey are very protective of the environment. Don’t destroy the rare endangered species, and posting everything on social media is not something people who go bouldering would welcome.”
Anderson, who was instrumental in getting rock climbing approved for public access in the state, said that while he encourages folks to enjoy Jersey’s natural offerings, more visitors to these sites means more ecological damage. Anderson encourages newbies to live in the moment — the parks are not a photo op for Instagram, where images of scenic destinations can drive environmentally harmful traffic.
Before heading to an outdoor bouldering site, Anderson recommends practicing at a local climbing gym, especially for families. With nearly two dozen to choose from around the state, prospective boulderers shouldn’t have a problem finding a location.
Sourland Mountain Preserve has several beginner-friendly bouldering options, like The Gator and The Wave. Photo courtesy of NJ Advance Media
Where to Boulder in New Jersey
Bouldering difficulty is graded on the V-scale, which starts at VB and currently goes all the way up to V17. Beginners should stick with VB, V1, V2 options, according to Anderson. New Jersey has a plethora of tamer options for novices, including families with children.
“I have (multiple sclerosis), and I still go bouldering, climbing and kayaking. I have a friend of mine who took his 3-year-old out bouldering,” Anderson said.
Sourland Mountain Preserve
The panoramic Sourlands, part of the Somerset County Parks system, is by far the best location for bouldering in New Jersey, Anderson said. It stretches across Somerset and Hunterdon counties, but visitors should note that bouldering is not permitted in the Hunterdon territories.
“Somerset County boulders are climbed on a lot, so there no poison ivy,” Anderson said. “It’s the best place to go for generalized bouldering and getting into meeting some locals. You can observe other people bouldering before you try it yourself.”
You want to plug the address — 415 E. Mountain Road, Hillsborough, N.J. 08844 — into your GPS to make sure you’re headed to the right side of the park. When you see an entrance sign, the park will lead down a short road to a parking lot, which is free for visitors. You’ll be able to access a few trails from the lot.
Though there are a few intermediate bouldering routes, newbies should stick to the Polar Bear, Old School, The Wave, The Cling and The Gator.
Allamuchy Mountain State Park
Colloquially referred to as “the Mooch,” Allamuchy Mountain State Park is a fantastic spot in Stanhope to practice easy to moderate climbs. Its ample shade also gives visitors some reprieve from intense heat as they set out to conquer the rocks.
Beginners should stick to the Doorknob, Cross Stitch, Brake Check, Rubber Ducky and Mr. Miyagi bouldering routes before advancing to the park’s more difficult climbs. To get to the park, follow U.S. Route 206 North to the second light, then turn left on County Route 604. Drive a couple miles from the wooden fence in one of the two parking lots on the right, and hike the trail into the woods. The boulders are about five minutes from the road, but first you’ll have to fill out a climbing waiver at the trailhead leading to the main cliff.
For a complete list of bouldering sites across the state, visit mountainproject.com/area/106374428/new-jersey.
M.E. Lewis is a Jersey tomato currently growing on a Brooklyn vine. She has covered South Jersey, Union County and Newark and spent a copious amount of time uncovering all things weird and cool about her home state.
This article originally appeared in the Fall 2022 issue of Jersey’s Best. Subscribe here for in-depth access to everything that makes the Garden State great.
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